Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
